Mili Gorge, Minoans and the Minotaur

This morning, you will visit Knossos, the most magnificent of the Minoan palaces. Discovered in the 19th century, this extraordinary Bronze Age civilisation was named Minoan after the mythological Minos, the son of Zeus and Europa, who was the King of Crete. According to Greek legend, King Minos constructed a labyrinth at Knossos to hold the Minotaur until it was killed by Theseus, who then escaped with King Minos' daughter, Ariadne.
The palace at Knossos offers a glimpse into the sophisticated world of the Minoans, who brought considerable prosperity to the island through maritime trade that extended from Greece and Turkey to Egypt and Syria. At the peak of this civilisation in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, Crete held significant influence throughout the Mediterranean. People sought to emulate the Minoans, adopting their fashion and interior design, while trading in pottery and textiles enriched the Minoan citizens.
Ranked as the second most visited historical site in all of Greece, following the Acropolis in Athens, Knossos is well-known for its exquisitely painted throne room, intricate frescoes, and balustraded passageways. Roaming through Knossos, it's easy to imagine daily life unfolding in these elegant rooms.
While exploring the maze-like corridors of the palace (potentially the origin of the Minotaur myth), keep an eye out for the House of the Frescoes, the Villa of Dionysos with its splendid mosaics, and the frescoes depicting bull-leaping and dolphins in the Queen’s Megaron (private chambers).
Entry tickets to Knossos should be purchased online.

Arkadi Monastery is a beautiful example of Venetian architecture with a deeply tragic history. Constructed around the 14th century, its present appearance, featuring an ornate bell tower and chapel façade, dates back to the 18th century, towards the end of Venetian dominion over Crete. Once among the largest and wealthiest monasteries in Crete, it now stands as a UNESCO European Freedom Monument and a symbol of the struggle for Greek independence.
In 1866, during the Greco-Turkish conflicts, Ottoman forces assaulted the monastery after the Abbot and local villagers declined to surrender. Approximately 700 women and children, along with 260 Cretan soldiers, took refuge within the monastery's walls as it came under heavy bombardment. The assault culminated in an explosion, set off by the Ottoman soldiers, killing everyone inside.
As you walk around the expansive complex, you can see the monks’ residential quarters, as well as warehouses, stables and agricultural tools. In one of the courtyards, keep an eye out for the dead tree that still harbours a bullet from the 1866 attack.
Tickets to enter the monastery can be purchased at the entrance.

Situated right on the beautiful Misiria Beach, the River Taverna Café specialises in fresh, charcoal-grilled fish and seafood. One of my favourite lunches is grilled prawns with a simple Greek salad – and this place doesn't disappoint!
You may book a table in advance online.

Park here in the small car park next to the Mili Gorge road sign and map. This is the start of the trail.
While it doesn't boast the dramatic high walls and narrow chasms of some gorges, the tiny chapels you'll see along the way set it apart – not to mention the picturesque scenery. The trail stretches for 5 km and guides you all the way down through the gorge, named after the old, now abandoned, riverside mills that once provided the city of Rethymo with flour. The path is well-signposted and easy to follow; however, there are numerous steps in places and the ground is uneven, so it's advisable to wear sturdy and appropriate footwear.
The route is shaded by large plane and fruit trees (including pomegranate and fig) and traces the bubbling stream, crossing bridges and passing small waterfalls, as it meanders down the gorge. Along the way, you'll come across several beautiful old chapels and abandoned houses. There's also a quaint taverna should you wish to stop for a drink.
The trail ends at the lovely Cantina Banana restaurant, where you can reward yourself with a cold beer or juice, while they order a taxi for you (they are happy to do this) to take you back to the start of the trail.

Tucked away in the old town near the harbour, the Leo Hotel is a 15th-century building, formerly the home of the Venetian Governor. The architecture has been beautifully preserved, and the rooms are lovely.
Check into the hotel before dinner. If you'd like a brief walk beforehand, take a leisurely stroll along the harbour front and admire its traditional Venetian architecture.
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Walking to the restaurant will take you through the town's crooked old alleyways, where many of the houses are decorated with wooden balconies and feature marble blocks with Arabic inscriptions, remnants of the city's Turkish history.
Nestled at the base of the imposing 16th-century fortress (the largest in Crete), Sunset Restaurant lives up to its name. Not only does it offer one of the finest sunset views in town, but the food is also pretty good – grilled meats, fish, and salads. Nothing fancy, but hearty and delicious.

Return to the hotel.
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