Monks, Minoans, and Flower Children

Preveli Monastery is made up of two main structures: the ruined monastery of St John the Baptist and the working monastery of Saint John the Theologian. Both can be visited, but women should cover their shoulders and legs in the latter; the monks will lend you a shawl if necessary.
Start with the older monastery, which is thought to date back to the 10th-11th century, the Late Byzantine era. Then you can wander around the ruins of what was once the kitchen and dining area, the monks' cells and abbot's room, and the warehouses – look out for the olive oil press.
From here, you move on to the working monastery, which was constructed much later by the Venetians in 1594, only to be burnt down by the Ottomans around 50 years later and rebuilt by the monks. The buildings were rebuilt several times after this, following further attacks by the Turks, and finally by the Germans in 1941 in retaliation for facilitating the escape of the Allied Forces soldiers who were coming through Imbros Gorge to meet the boats at Sfakia.
Here you can check out some of the main buildings that the monks use today, including the workshops for basket and saddle making, carpentry, and tool repair.
Entry tickets can be purchased on arrival.

Below here is the wonderful Preveli Beach, which sits at the end of the 3 km Kourtaliotis Gorge, through which the Grand River (Megalos Potamos) flows into the Libyan Sea, cutting the beach in two and creating a shallow lagoon in the middle. Along the river are swaying palms and oleander shrubs that create a shady forest and border the beautiful sandy beach. If this sounds idyllic, it certainly is.
From the car park, it’s a short (15-20 minute) but steep walk down the cliff to the beach: it’s worth it, though, for the bird's-eye view of the lagoon, gorge, beach, and palm forest that you can't really appreciate from the bottom.
Once you reach the beach, you have several options. You can: a) do nothing and just enjoy the beauty of your surroundings; b) hop between bathing in the warm waters of the Libyan Sea and the cool, refreshing mountain water of the lagoon – my favourite activity; c) follow the path up from the beach into the palm forest, which will take you along the river and into the gorge; d) wade into the sea to take a selfie in front of the famous heart-shaped rock; e) all of the above.
Note: this is a protected area and there are no sun loungers or parasols to rent, so you will need to bring your own towels and beach gear. There is, however, a small taverna serving drinks and snacks.

This restaurant is notable, at least because of its chef. Christos Lapas is a celebrity chef in Crete and, as well as having his own TV show, has also authored the '4000 years of Cretan flavours' book. The restaurant specialises in seafood, and everything is sourced locally.
This is a popular place, so reservations are recommended. Book online.

From the restaurant, walk along the beach to the other end of the bay, where you will see caves carved into the cliffs.
In the 1960s, the ‘flower children’ descended upon the sleepy fishing village of Matala and set up home in these caves; the most famous resident being Joni Mitchell, who immortalised the town in her 1971 song ‘Carey’: “And they're playin' that scratchy rock and roll, Beneath the Matala Moon”.
These days, the hippies have left town, but you can still explore the rock caves. The age of these caves is unknown, but they are believed to most likely date back to Roman times, when they were used as burial chambers. As you walk around, you’ll see that some have beds, windows, and even porches carved out of the rock, suggesting that they were used as domestic dwellings at some point. Although you can no longer sleep over in the caves, they can still be explored, and it’s fun to scramble around the different levels.
Buy a ticket at the entrance to access the caves.

Phaestos is the second largest of the Minoan palaces and was said to be the home of King Rhadamanthus, brother of King Minos, and the judge of souls entering the underworld.
Sitting at the foot of the Messara Plain with panoramic views across to the mountains, this archaeological site is a stark contrast to Knossos. Restorations have been minimal, and so consequently, most of what you'll see is single-story. It isn't as colourful as Knossos either – there are no large frescoes – but the interpretation at the site (in English) is excellent, and there is still a lot to see.
Check out the decorated stone urns in the underground storerooms that are so enormous you can easily hide inside them; these were used to store olive oil, wine, and grains. The grand gateway into the palace is also impressive.
Like nearly all the Minoan palaces, Phaestos was destroyed, reportedly by fire, in 1450 BC (Knossos was destroyed a hundred years later), marking the end of the Minoan civilization. There is an ongoing debate about the reason(s) behind the disappearance of the Minoans. There may have been an economic collapse as a result of the Thera (Santorini Island) volcanic eruption, disrupting trade routes. Alternatively, the eruption itself may have caused a tsunami that damaged the island and made it vulnerable to invasion by the Mycenaeans, who later dominated Crete.

Aloni is a traditional taverna in a lovely old stone building with a sheltered courtyard. The menu is Cretan, but with some interesting twists, and the food is beautifully presented.
Please note that the restaurant is closed on Mondays.

This four-day trip has been a journey through the history of Crete, from the great Minoan civilization, through the Greek and Roman eras, the Venetians and the Ottomans, to the German occupation during World War II, and the hippies of the 60s. Alongside this, you've also experienced some of the most beautiful landscapes, from the island's dramatic gorges to its beautiful beaches and freshwater lake, and hopefully enjoyed the wonderful food and drinks. And this is only part of the island. There are still the West and East regions to explore next time!